These how-to tips are to help you create & apply your own rhinestone designs. These are the latest do-it-yourself tips I recommend. (Previous, out-dated info has been removed.) For faster multiple designs: template method instructions are provided for registered users. (Additional help info will be added at the end of this page.)

FAQ(more):: Instructions on how to export and share designs!
Load Image to be used as a guide only. Does not automatically convert an image into a dot pattern. At the moment, rhinestone fonts need to be re-sized in external vector design program, (download tutorial here).

Rhinestone Designer JPEG:
The best way to make rhinestone designs is by mouse placing dot rhinestones over an un-progressive jpeg image at exact dimensions where jpeg image 72pixels = 1 inch; Use an image editing program to re-size the image's HxW like so: 1x2 inch design = H 72pix x W 144pix (the original image's dpi is not important). Or, you can load the original non-resized image and enter "auto-scale enter image DPI:" in program. The jpeg must be located in the same folder as the Rhinestone Designer program, make sure it's in the swf folder version or .exe version. (ex. C:/Programs/Rhinestone_Designer/my_non-progressive_jpeg_image_file_name.jpg -- exe version folder)

The curve tool is a little quirky right now, but I am working on a drag and rotate curve tool to replace this one. The arc value needs to be reset to start a new curve. If you switch from clockwise to counter clockwise the initial guide dot is in the wrong place but when you roll over it it puts the dot at the right place. Then just move slightly stray dots by drag drop closer to the image's line.

To change rhinestone font dot-size, select (*), then roll over each font on stage and the current rhinestone dot-size will update. Global (***) tool does not work on rhinestone fonts. You may select options: "do not remove" to be able to use font as a "guide" to place and save multi-color-sizes, then delete the font guide.


Print-out Design:

1) Trim printout to about 1" close to design dots using straight line cuts.
2) Tape design printout paper down on a flat surface.
3) (Optional)Cover paper with clear tape or clear sticky lamination.
4) Cover design with transfer film and peel back from one side.
5) Add rhinestones to closest side where peeled back.
6) Fold transfer film over rhinestones at intervals, especially for larger designs, to prevent misalignment and save time.
7) Nudge adjust rhinestones through top of transfer tape with your finger nail.
8) Optionally, place a non-stick wax/plastic backing to store for future use.

1) Pre-wash fabric, remove any lint.
2) Remove protective backing sheet.
3) Place transfer. Wear shirt to place where you want it. If shirt is stretchy, design may stretch when worn, so, mark transfer placement at all four corners with tape. Carefully remove transfer and place on original backing sheet.
5) Safety pin down sides of garment on ironing board if fabric needs to be stretched to place transfer. Stretch fabric to transfer dimensions using a ruler, and remove tape.
6) Place ironing board flat on a bed or sofa, with leg stands closed.
7) Place two pieces of paper, (or cookie sheets), one between fabric layers, inside shirt, and the other over transfer
8) Set iron to around 325F for fine fabrics or 350F for cotton blend.
9) Test that it's hot enough, then, apply 25-35 lbs of pressure, using both arms, for 4 sec. Practice this step with cold iron first! Iron's steam holes are "cold" spots. (Do not use steam.)
10) Lift and shift iron slightly then press again for 4 sec. If entire rhinestones do not fall underneath iron then wait 30 sec. and use flat back side of iron for a good 7 sec on the group you missed. Ok to overlap some rhinestones you already heated.
11) Allow to cool for 30 sec or fan with air for a few seconds and slowly lift transfer film. If you notice some loose crystals then put back transfer and reapply heat, with iron's flat tip, for 7 sec.
12) Reverse shirt (inside out).
13) Place a piece of paper inside shirt behind crystals.
14) Apply heat as previously, this time to underside of crystals. Use a paper between crystals and hot iron. Remove paper. Allow to cool.
15) Use tip of iron to heat crystals so that you see or feel a glue watermark-like 'dimple'.
16) Crystals are now permanent and dry cleanable!

note: tape used for this method is cellulose stretchy tape, used for protecting carpets and floors when painting walls. I recommend flattening the hat with safety pins onto ironing board, pointed side, with cap visor hanging off the edge. But, this method has worked well for hats that can't be fattened: Read cap fabric label to set iron to appropriate heat setting.

If design can be applied in flat sections, and still maintain the original intended look:
1) Cut design into sections, letters, etc.
2) Place a section on cap, cover with a piece of paper, and apply heat for 7-10 sec.
3) Peel tape hot after 5-10 seconds (do not fan to cool).

If it is not possible to apply your design on a curved cap in sections, here is one way to do it without investing in a professional cap press:
Crumple a newspaper page into a ball. Wrap pages around it to the size of a softball. Use an old linen pillow cover. With one hand holding the newspaper ball inside the hat, use a clean linen pillow cover, and iron using even pressure and outward strokes. Do not over apply heat! Test for just enough melted glue application. Then, remove tape and apply iron in the previous fashion. Use hot tip on iron to re-melt glue and make minor alignments --with minimal force-- takes about 7-10 sec at cotton setting. For best results use a rhinestone hot fix wand applicator instead of an iron for touch-ups.